Stories and Articles

Mike Yardley: Time out in Tarawera

Author: Mike Yardley,
Publish Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021, 2:29PM

It’s the cradle within the cradle of New Zealand tourism, the Buried Village of Te Wairoa. If the 1886 Tarawera eruption was our version of Vesuvius, Te Wairoa is surely our homegrown mini-Pompeii. As the birthplace of New Zealand tourism, prior to 1886, moneyed Europeans flocked to these parts, to see, photograph, paint, sketch and bathe in the mineral waters of the legendary Pink and White Terraces. Te Wairoa was the staging post, from where they’d board a whaleboat, in their crinoline dresses and bowler hats, to cross Lake Tarawera to reach those tantalising terraces on Lake Rotomahana. At the time of the eruption, Te Wairoa was humming, home to 150 residents, two hotels, the Hinemihi meeting house, a church and school. It was the Tuhourangi people, a sub-tribe of Te Arawa, who owned most of the land in the area, astutely cashing in big-time on the booming tourist trade.

All bases were covered - cultural performances, carriage across the lake, food-stops, photographers, paintings, you name it. When Tarawera erupted, over 120 people were wiped out, while Te Wairoa was decimated. Today, this once bustling village is now a tranquil setting of park-like grounds with carefully excavated remains, like the stone storehouse, Māori waka and blacksmith’s workshop. The scars are partly concealed by the regenerated bush, but the relics and the surrounding landscape do give you an unmistakeable sense of just how much mud and ash fell on the night of 10 June 1886. There is still much that could be excavated. I started my exploratory at the phenomenal Te Wairoa Museum, a repository for many of the objects excavated from the site, particularly household crockery and furniture. It’s an emotionally potent museum, sharply reinforcing the human dimension of the natural disaster.

For many decades a sewing machine could be spotted high up in the trees, (from the eruption.) Eventually the tree had to be felled due to rot, but that section of the tree and the sewing machine can now be seen in the museum. There’s a riveting display that showcases the multiple reports of a Phantom Canoe, a ghostly waka, in the days leading up to the eruption, as witnessed by Guide Sophia and her tour parties on the lake. (Sophia survived the disaster and became a pioneer guide at Whakarewarewa.) I also learnt about the village tohunga, Tūhoto Ariki, who interpreted the sightings of this apparition as a warning of impending doom. Roughly 100 years old, most villagers ignored his prophesising, although several months earlier, the warrior prophet Te Kooti stayed at Te Wairoa and urged his host to clear out of the place, fearing looming destruction. Spooky! When Tarawera erupted, many survivors actually blamed Tūhoto for unleashing such misfortune, and with his hut overwhelmed in a mountain of ash and mud, he was initially left entombed in his whare to avoid further disasters.

However, four days later, rescuers dug him out, finding him still alive after 104 hours! The fact that he had survived so long, enhanced the view that he was a man of great powers. He was taken to Rotorua Sanitorium Hospital and died several weeks later. I paused at the site of his whare as I walked the grounds with Dave McGarth, who is part of the fourth generation of the Smith family, who have run the venture for 90 years. Reg and Vi Smith bought the land and a little cottage on the site in 1931 and began the task of excavating, along with Vi running the tearooms. Another highlight is seeing the remains of the Rotomahana Hotel, where many of those Victorian travellers stayed. My guide, Theresa, Dave and I chatted about the phantom canoe legend and Theresa mentioned that back in the day, local Māori were buried upright in a waka on Lake Tarawera. So was the so-called

apparition a burial waka that had been dislodged, was it a ghost ship, or were Sophia and the tour group simply hallucinating on volcanic gases?

Be sure to take the gorgeous walk flanking the Te Wairoa Stream, flowing from Green Lake and bursting with Rainbow Trout. It plunges over the Waitoharuru Cliffs forming a spectacular cascade, Wairere Falls - another unmissable highlight when visiting the storied Buried Village. Just before checking into my roost for the night, I paused at the lookout on Tarawera Road as the enigmatic mountain brooded on the horizon, across the glistening water. For a spot of luxury glamping on the western banks of Lake Tarawera, you cannot beat a cosy night at the evocative Jack’s Hut. This heart-stealing hillside glamping spot is located on the Spencer Lodge Estate and you’ll be snug as a bug in this 1930s’ South Island shepherd’s hut, with power, electric fire, a separate toilet and kitchen facilities, plus fabulous barbeque deck.

It’s been in the Mackay family’s possession since it was built by Jack MacKay in Montana, West Otago and became known as the “honeymoon hut”, given it was where he welcomed his first wife. David and Angela Mackay relocated this time-honoured hut 1500kms to its current Tarawera site three years ago. There’s a trove of original items adorning the hut, like the stock from Jack’s original gun that he used to shoot all the rabbits to pay for his first car. The wooden cutlery tray is also an original piece. This is a wonderfully secluded spot, backed by a native ponga forest, with stirring views of the lake and mountain – and the birdsong is ebullient. It feels like a magical holiday bolt-hole. You can sit on the swing seat with a book and glass of wine, fire up the outdoor woodfired hot tub, toast some marshmallows and lose yourself in the star-flecked night sky. It’s an easy walk down to Stoney Point Beach for a bracing dip, or take the kayak for a ride. Blissed-out in Tarawera. https://taraweraholidayhome.nz/

After a solid night’s sleep, I awoke to a sparkling winter’s morning before scooting round to Tarawera Landing, for a tremendous cruise on the lake with Totally Tarawera. It’s the same site from where the whaleboats would leave from carrying visitors to the Terraces. Karen Walmsley, grand-daughter of Guide Sophia, along with her husband Dave, established the eco-tourism business, Totally Tarawera, 16 years ago. Steeped in the spirit of manaakitanga, the operator offers a variety of salivating experiences, from guided cruises and water taxi services to divine glamping sites. Over the course of several hours on-board their Discovery tour, Dave imparted all manner of insights on the rich history and drama of the lake, while also zipping us to some of its finest gems. The star specimen is Te Rata/ Hot Water Beach, where we savoured the amazing geothermal area along the edge of the lake.

The sand is warm enough for a fisherman to cook freshly caught trout! It’s wildly popular with summer campers and Dave remarked that it’s not unusual to see a casserole or lamb shanks sitting in the hot stream, cooking away. Boarding the boat again, we purred along the bush-cloaked lake edge to the Natural Bush Hot Pool. It’s like an enchanting secret garden, where you can lie back in the crystal-clear tempered waters, wrapped in the fern-rich finery of the native forest. You’ll notice enormous endeavours are underway to liberate much of the land and forest around Tarawera from invasive species. Wilding pines and wattle trees are being poisoned to get rid of them. The wattles took root from scattered seeds in the saddle bags of the old horse and carts, that used to ply the area. There’s also a major wallaby population around Tarawera. Definitely take a tour with Totally Tarawera. www.totallytarawera.com

Central to the legacy of the disastrous Tarawera eruption is the remarkable Waimangu Volcanic Valley. As Mt. Tarawera split in two and exploded Lake Rotomahana to 20 times its previous size, it also opened the earth along a 17km-long rift. The seven craters that you see today in Waimangu

Valley today were violently created in the process. In a short space of time, the hot springs at Waimangu were established within the craters, making the reserve the world’s youngest geothermal eco-system. Previously, the peaceful valley was home to just rolling scrub-covered hills. Waimangu’s geothermal features are absolutely enthralling, like the largest hot spring in the world, Frying Pan Lake, and the azure jewelled spectacle of Inferno Crater. You could easily spend all day exploring its grippingly active and dramatic features. Be sure to add on a 45 minute guided cruise on Lake Rotomahana. You can’t beat a good fumerole and Fumerole Bay’s intense steam vents, billowing like factory chimneys is an arresting sight. It’s also quite the novelty to be cruising over the exact site of the Pink and White Terraces. A decade ago, small remnants of both terraces were discovered, 60 metres below the water surface. www.waimangu.co.nz

Finally, an unbeatable way to get an incisive sense of nature’s mind-blowing majesty and monstrous power is to take a chopper ride with Volcanic Air to the top of Mt. Tarawera. En-route, you’ll fly over the bedazzling beauty of the Waimangu Valley before landing on the summit of the sacred peak. In places, the mountain looks wildly twisted, with a crust of rich volcanic red material. The wider view vividly demonstrates how the earth was blown open or unzipped, with colossal valley-like fissures running for 17kms. Yes, mother nature is always in charge. www.volcanicair.co.nz

For a history-dripping holiday, tinged with tragedy and unrivalled natural drama, Tarawera makes for an unforgettable getaway. www.rotoruanz.com

I zipped my way around Rotorua with a superb rental vehicle from Thrifty Car Rental. Offering excellent coverage across New Zealand, drive away with Thrifty’s new Risk-free Package which delivers maximum peace of mind on your journey. Priced form just $89 a day, it includes unlimited kms, zero excess, free airport fee and zero credit card fees. My pick-up and drop-off was super swift and stress-free. For full details on Thrifty’s Risk-free Package, head to https://www.thrifty.co.nz

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings

1. Booking confirmation

Thank you for visiting www.taraweraholidayhome.nz (the Website). By making a booking request for a property on the Website you (the guest) agree to be bound by these terms and conditions and our privacy policy located on the Website (Terms).

If you make a booking request through the Website, Tarawera Property Management Limited (TPM) will contact you within two working days to advise confirmation or non-acceptance of the booking request.

Acceptance will be at TPM's sole discretion. Acceptance of a booking will give you a license to occupy the relevant property on the booked days only, and subject to full compliance with all terms and conditions.

Should TPM not accept a booking request, TPM will refund any accommodation costs, service fee and add-on costs. The money will leave TPM immediately upon cancellation but can take up to 5 working days for your credit card provider / bank to return to your account.

2. Booking Periods and Minimum Nights

A booking that includes 25 December must start on or before 24 December and end on or after 26 December.

A booking that includes any nights from 1 January through 10 January must be for a minimum of 7 consecutive nights and be back-to-back or leave a gap of at least 5 nights. (If a booking request is submitted after 15 December for stays from 1 January, a 2-night booking may be accepted). A booking from 24 December to 31 December should be back to back or leave a minimum gap of 2 nights.

A booking over Labour Weekend, regional Anniversary Weekends, and Waitangi Weekend is for three nights, unless specified otherwise. A booking that includes Easter must be for a minimum of four nights.

At all other times a two consecutive night minimum stay applies, except where a specific property listing requires a longer or shorter minimum.

3. Persons on Booking and Maximum Persons

Bookings must not exceed the maximum number of people specified on the property listing, regardless of the number of beds available at the property.

Should the booking request not be accepted due to the number of persons in the group exceeding the maximum allowed on the property and / or the time period, any monies collected from the proposed guest will be refunded less the non-refundable service fee inclusive of GST.

The booking is valid for the number of persons and group configuration as indicated on the booking request. Any changes to the booking should be communicated to and agreed by TPM, in writing, so as to ensure the booking remains valid.

4. Cancellations and booking changes

If the booking is cancelled or reduced nights requested by you more than 60 days before the start of the stay, we will refund any add-on fees that have been paid but the Service Fee shall be forfeited with no refund due and:

If you have not fully paid the accommodation costs, the amount paid in respect of accommodation costs is forfeit and no refund due;
If you have fully paid the accommodation costs, we will refund 70% of the accommodation costs with the remainder being forfeit and no refund due.

If the booking is cancelled by you 60 or less days before the start of the stay, we will refund any add-on fees paid but all accommodation fees and the Service Fee shall be forfeit and no refund due.

If you cancel the booking after the final payment due date, you remain liable for the balance of funds due for the booked stay period.

If you fail to pay any amount when due, TPM may treat that failure as a cancellation by you of the booking.

Premature departure during a booking will not be eligible for any refunds.

The Service Fee is non-refundable under any circumstances once your Booking is confirmed.

Booking changes are by agreement only once your Booking is confirmed.

5. Person making the booking present for stay

You, as the person making the booking, must be present and onsite at the property throughout the stay, unless agreed in writing by TPM. If you do not stay at the property during the booking but your guests do, you will still be legally responsible for all your obligations under these Terms and Conditions and your guests' compliance with them.

6. Rental Payment & Rates

For all guests, the option exists to pay a 30% up-front, with balance of the booking cost paid by credit card 30 days prior to the stay. The card used at the time of the booking request will be charged for further payments.

Rates for a Property are valid and applicable at the time of booking, regardless of whether they are subsequently changed. Additional rates may appear under the special conditions of a specific property, which will apply in addition to the nightly rental rate. Rate Specials are only valid at the time of booking and must be applied at time booking is made. Weekday specials refer to Sunday nights through Thursday nights.

For bookings over New Year’s Eve or during festivals, concerts and similar events, a bond up to $750 may be charged. This will be refunded after checkout subject to the holiday home being returned in an acceptable manner and the property being respected and used in accordance with our terms and conditions.

7. Key Collection and property access

Contact your TPM holiday manager at least two hours prior to your arrival to ensure the property is opened, cleaned, and ready for your arrival.

8. Check in and out time

Check in time: 3.00pm Check out time: 10.00am. This applies all year round.

Final confirmation of early check-ins and late checkouts will not be available until the day of the arrival or checkout depending on other bookings for the property.

If an early arrival or late checkout is permitted, a surcharge of 25% of the nightly rental rate will be payable. Departures after 5.00pm will be charged a full night's rental.

9. Cleaning and rubbish

The property must be left clean and tidy and in the same condition in which it was found. Otherwise, you will be charged for additional cleaning at the following rates (+GST):

$35 per hour for standard cleaning, washing, laundering
$45 for abnormal or unreasonable cleaning and odour removal
$20 plus tip fees for rubbish and recycling removal
If you have booked the prepaid cleaning, this is based on the number of hours indicated when you selected the pre-paid cleaning option. Pre-paid cleans are non-refundable. Any unreasonable/excessive cleaning and rubbish removal beyond this amount will be charged to you as an additional charge based on the additional time taken.
If the selected property has cleaning included in the nightly rate, there will be a number of hours of cleaning included as per the Special Conditions on the specific property listing. Any cleaning beyond this time or any unreasonable cleaning and rubbish removal will be charged to you as an additional charge based on the additional time taken.
Costs will be deducted from the credit card used to make the booking.

10. Linen

TPM provide a linen package consisting of bottom sheet, top sheet, pillowcase(s), towel(s), tea towel(s), bathmat and face cloth(s). The beds will be made up for your arrival and the linen will be removed from the beds after your departure. Do not sleep on beds without linen.

An additional set of linen can be provided on request at a rate of $15 per person per linen set.

A linen servicing can be organised at a rate of $30 + GST per hour for a TPM representative to change the beds and all linen. Hire linen cannot be washed onsite, but the additional linen package can be ordered.

TPM cannot guarantee availability of the linen package if a request is made inside 7 working days before the start of the stay. Cancellations for the hired linen service requires 7 working days to the TPM, in writing and confirmed, for any refunds to be available.

Beach towels or additional linen can be hired. Please enquire with TPM for additional costs.

Should you use any of the owner's personal linen the laundering costs per clause 9 will apply.

11. Additional Services and Charges

Additional charges (+GST) will be payable as follows:

A service fee - the entire service fee is charged as part of the first payment and is non-refundable. The service fee is calculated as a percentage of the total booking amount charged for the transaction, excluding any extras/add-ons. Typically, the higher the reservation amount, the lower the percentage of service fee.
$25 for each booking change.
$20 for up to two pets, if a pet is taken onto the property and the house is pet friendly.
Port-a-cot rental, where available, at a rate of $10 per day or maximum of $40 per week.
High-chair rental, where available, at a rate of $5 per day or maximum of $25 per week.
$12.50 if your credit card is declined when TPM attempts to charge your credit card for the final payment. Failure to update your credit card details could also result in cancellation of your booking and forfeiture of any accommodation fees, additional or add-on fees, and service fees paid.
$75 for lost keys, $25 each for lost / damaged Welcome Guide or Discover Pack
$30 per hour to organise third parties to rectify a situation or $45 per hour if holiday manager has to conduct remedial work themselves at the house to sort out issues arising from stay
Missing linen at replacement cost
The cost of repair or replacement of damaged or missing items, plus and additional handling fee of 14% of the costs incurred.
Debt collection and legal fees incurred in the collection of unpaid charges
Interest on any overdue accounts at the variable interest rate of ANZ Bank from the due date of the invoice until payment is received.
Costs will be deducted from the credit card used to make the booking.

12. Other Rules to 'Respect the House'

In addition to anything else stated in these Terms and without limiting TPM’s rights, a breach of the following rules could result in possible eviction from the property and/or up to $1,000 being charged per occurrence:

Pitching of caravans or tents on the property without the written consent of TPM.
Parties, events, weddings, receptions, stag / hen festivities without the written consent of TPM. Parties includes extra persons not authorised by TPM.
Excess people above the maximum, not authorised by TPM in writing.
Smoking on the property unless permitted by the property listing.
Abuse, including verbal or physical, of TPM representatives, the owner or its representatives or the neighbours.
Undue nuisance or noise to neighbours or the local community.
Use of illegal substances or conduct of illegal activities at the property
Anything that could invalidate the insurance policy for the property.
Moving or re-arranging furniture.
Cutting keys or obtaining remote door controls for the property.
Tampering with smoke alarms.
Leaving a fireplace, oven, or any other cooking unattended.
Booking on behalf of another person without intending to be at the property during the stay.
Bringing a pet onsite when unauthorised, or inside the house if the house only allows pets outside.
Should you be evicted from the property, all amounts paid will be forfeited and the holiday manager may remain on-site at the property as you ready for departure. In the instance of eviction, a mandatory exit clean will be provided by your holiday manager and will be charged, to the booking credit card holder, at the rate of $35 + GST per hour.

13. Water

Water is a precious resource in many of our holiday destinations. Many properties are only on tank water, with no public town supply. You must be careful with water usage. TPM may charge excessive water usage back to you. Washing boats, jet ski's, kayaks, and other water toys are not permitted, unless agreed in writing by TPM. Should the water run out within 7 days of your departure due to excessive water usage, you may be liable for the cost of the tank refill.

14. Reporting a complaint

Should you have any issues during your stay, you should notify the holiday manager immediately. Contact details are available in the guest information folder/book for the property.

15. Unavailability

If the property becomes unavailable for any reason after the booking request is confirmed or the booking is frustrated, TPM may shift you into another property that can accommodate your booking in either the existing community or a nearby community. If this is not possible, TPM will cancel the booking and:

If the Property Owner or TPM is responsible for the property becoming unavailable, refund the relevant accommodation, and additional or add-on fees paid (but not any service fees); or
If the property has become unavailable for any other reason or the booking is frustrated, TPM may, at its discretion, provide you with a credit for the relevant accommodation, and additional or add-on fees paid (but not any service fees).
TPM, its holiday manager nor the property owner will have any other liability or responsibility in connection with the unavailability of any property for any reason after booking.

16. Business Purposes

The Consumer Guarantees Act 1993 does not apply if the property is used for business purposes.

17. Liability

Any use of amenities, such as kayaks, canoes, surf boards, bikes, spa pools, is entirely at your own risk and neither TPM nor the property owner will be liable for any injury, loss or damage you or any other person may suffer.

You will advise the TPM holiday manager before your departure of any loss or damage that has occurred at the property during your stay.

You will be responsible for the full costs, both direct and consequential, including time of TPM and/or the owner and its representatives, of repairing or replacing any and all damage to the property and/or its contents, any lost income or other costs incurred by TPM and /or the owner and its representatives.

None of TPM, its agents, contractors or the property owner will be liable for any event beyond their reasonable control, or for any loss or damage you or any other person suffers during your stay, or for any damage to the property.

18. Prices and Payments

All prices displayed on this website are in New Zealand Dollars and may be changed at any time without notice. TPM is a NZ owned company. Booking and payment for the accommodation must be made by a valid credit or debit card through www.taraweraholidayhome.nz, using Visa or Mastercard. For your security, TPM does not hold your credit card details on file and therefore they must be entered at the time of each booking through www.taraweraholidayhome.nz.

19. Contract

TPM acts as Agent for the accommodation owner. These Terms are for the benefit of, and are intended to be enforceable by, the Property owner under the Contracts (Privity) Act 1982.